[Elmers] Go Box Power

[k6uvr at pacbell.net]

Will the SAMLEX be charging the bioenno pack?
If not, simply put Anderson pigtails on the output of the supply and input to the battery - you can connect / disconnect at will, leaving you flexibility to change things up as you see the need.  You can 'stuff' multiple small-gauge wires in to a single Anderson pin to power the 'small' stuff.  a 30 or 45 amp pin may be able to create a 'custom harness' to run everything in the box off a single connection assuming ONE CAVEAT:  You still need individual fuses for each item on their power cords.
Will you be adding a solar panel or are you planning on running any accesosries outside your Go box (phone charger, USB port, laptop etc)?

        -SteveK6UVR



    On Thursday, March 5, 2020, 04:42:40 PM PST, Ron <rfmosher at cox.net> wrote:  
 
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I am building my first go-box and I have a question about the best way to handle the power connections.  The box includes a Yaesu FT857D and other related equipment (antenna tuner, Signalink, etc.) that does not draw much power.  On transmit, the current will be around 22 amps.

  

The box includes a Samlex 1235M as the power source when AC is available.  I plan to get a Bioenno 1230AS (30Ah) as the internal battery for self-contained operation.  I would also like to be able to connect to my vehicle battery when the vehicle is nearby.  In the future, I would like to add solar power.

  

Questions:
   
   - Do I need an automatic power switching device, such as the West Mountain Epic PWRgate, to connect the battery and AC to the radio?
   - Is there a good alternative to the PWRgate, but maybe better and/or cheaper?  For example KI0BK has a Low Loss PWRgate; is it any good?  Are there other quality devices?
   - Should a 2-battery manual switch (like the ones used on boats to switch between batteries) be used to isolate the two batteries?

  

If anyone can help with these questions or offer any other suggestions, I would be most appreciative.

  

Ron  KØPGE

  

  

  
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